05-05-2011, 10:18 AM
Fiddlehead Ferns Saute
by Charlie Burke
The fiddlehead fern is a unique
delicacy from northern New England,
particularly prized in Maine and
New Hampshire.
That they are the first green vegetable
in the early spring, are around for only a few weeks, and are gathered by foragers
adds to their mystique.
When we had our cottage at Sebago Lake, they would arrive at local stores in burlap
bags carried by some memorable local characters. If someone, always “from away”,
were to ask where he found them, the usual response was a silent stare. If the forager
responded at all, it would usually be: “in the woods”. Natives know these locations
are carefully guarded secrets and never bother to ask the question.
Our son, Michael, once approached a group fishing on the ice in front of our cottage
and asked what they were fishing for and what bait they were using. He got two
answers: “fish” and “bait”! For those of us fortunate to live in the three best states in
New England, fiddleheads connect us with the past when folks lived closer to the
land.
So named because they resemble the carved wood on a violin, fiddleheads are the
unfurled shoots of the ostrich fern. Once they open and start to grow, they become
inedible; the best are tightly wrapped and dark green. They have a delicious intense
flavor which reminds me of the scent of woodland moss. Most describe it as
resembling asparagus, but I think this is a reach. Cooked to crunchy tenderness, they
are a flavorful and versatile treat. Most recipes call for blanching prior to final
preparation, but I eliminate this step, preferring to sauté them directly.
Traditionally, fiddleheads are served with only butter or oil and seasoning, and I
recommend you serve them this way the first time you try them or if you are going to
add them to a salad, soup or stew. Cooked with garlic and/or bacon they develop a
more complex flavor; we like them both ways and sometimes sauté them with
mushrooms.
Their appearance coincides with that of wild morels, and I’ve read they are fabulous
together. Unfortunately, morels are rarely in the market, so we’ve had to be content
with using more common mushrooms.
Makes 4 side dishes:
1 pound fiddlehead ferns
2 tablespoons olive oil
Butter (optional)
2 cloves finely chopped garlic (optional)
¼ cup pancetta or bacon, cut into ¼ inch cubes (optional)
Kosher or sea salt and ground black pepper
Trim the dark ends from the stems and wash the fiddleheads in a coarse strainer
using a strong stream of water. Place them in a large bowl of water and swirl them
around, rubbing off the thin flakes of chaff on the ferns. Drain and dry in a kitchen
towel, rubbing off any remaining chaff.
Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium – high heat. Add the bacon or pancetta, if using,
and cook, stirring until lightly browned. Add ferns and garlic and cook, covered, for
3 – 4 minutes. Uncover and cook for an additional 3 – 4 minutes or until they are
tender but still are slightly crunchy. Add salt and pepper to taste and swirl in some
butter if you wish. Serve immediately. If you make extra, they make an interesting
addition to a mixed salad or soups and stews. Because they are fully cooked, add
them at the last minute to hot dishes. Any way you serve them, you will be enjoying
a true New England treasure.
by Charlie Burke
The fiddlehead fern is a unique
delicacy from northern New England,
particularly prized in Maine and
New Hampshire.
That they are the first green vegetable
in the early spring, are around for only a few weeks, and are gathered by foragers
adds to their mystique.
When we had our cottage at Sebago Lake, they would arrive at local stores in burlap
bags carried by some memorable local characters. If someone, always “from away”,
were to ask where he found them, the usual response was a silent stare. If the forager
responded at all, it would usually be: “in the woods”. Natives know these locations
are carefully guarded secrets and never bother to ask the question.
Our son, Michael, once approached a group fishing on the ice in front of our cottage
and asked what they were fishing for and what bait they were using. He got two
answers: “fish” and “bait”! For those of us fortunate to live in the three best states in
New England, fiddleheads connect us with the past when folks lived closer to the
land.
So named because they resemble the carved wood on a violin, fiddleheads are the
unfurled shoots of the ostrich fern. Once they open and start to grow, they become
inedible; the best are tightly wrapped and dark green. They have a delicious intense
flavor which reminds me of the scent of woodland moss. Most describe it as
resembling asparagus, but I think this is a reach. Cooked to crunchy tenderness, they
are a flavorful and versatile treat. Most recipes call for blanching prior to final
preparation, but I eliminate this step, preferring to sauté them directly.
Traditionally, fiddleheads are served with only butter or oil and seasoning, and I
recommend you serve them this way the first time you try them or if you are going to
add them to a salad, soup or stew. Cooked with garlic and/or bacon they develop a
more complex flavor; we like them both ways and sometimes sauté them with
mushrooms.
Their appearance coincides with that of wild morels, and I’ve read they are fabulous
together. Unfortunately, morels are rarely in the market, so we’ve had to be content
with using more common mushrooms.
Makes 4 side dishes:
1 pound fiddlehead ferns
2 tablespoons olive oil
Butter (optional)
2 cloves finely chopped garlic (optional)
¼ cup pancetta or bacon, cut into ¼ inch cubes (optional)
Kosher or sea salt and ground black pepper
Trim the dark ends from the stems and wash the fiddleheads in a coarse strainer
using a strong stream of water. Place them in a large bowl of water and swirl them
around, rubbing off the thin flakes of chaff on the ferns. Drain and dry in a kitchen
towel, rubbing off any remaining chaff.
Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium – high heat. Add the bacon or pancetta, if using,
and cook, stirring until lightly browned. Add ferns and garlic and cook, covered, for
3 – 4 minutes. Uncover and cook for an additional 3 – 4 minutes or until they are
tender but still are slightly crunchy. Add salt and pepper to taste and swirl in some
butter if you wish. Serve immediately. If you make extra, they make an interesting
addition to a mixed salad or soups and stews. Because they are fully cooked, add
them at the last minute to hot dishes. Any way you serve them, you will be enjoying
a true New England treasure.