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I would wait on everything until the ground thaws...otherwise,if you have a snow or rain when the ground is hard and it cant penetrate and be absorbed,it will simply run off to some low spot or maybe right out of your property and you will have wasted your time and money.
You can lime anytime during the season and I dont think it would hurt if you did it at the same time or shortly after the Nitrogen application.The Nitrogen will be good for about a month or so before you see it start to see the effects slope off(may not even notice the chance in color unless you watch it close) and you are going to do the weedkill first anyway.It will tell you on the bottle how long to wait before feeding the lawn...if you have to really wait very long at all, depending on what the active herbicide ingrediant is in the product you will use.
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(01-30-2011, 08:40 PM)Lady Cop Wrote: yes! wisteria!
not butch here! afraid to post in thread! hahaha
::bantits::
Good God, are we sure that's a women? Is that its tits or its stomach. Is that a bulge or does it actually have coochy fat rolls. Maybe it's a dude and he is just as confused as I am.
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Eww..it's her hooter. *ick*
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(01-30-2011, 11:23 PM)Cracker Wrote: I guess I need one of those spreader thingys...
Note to self--schedule annual exam.
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spreader thingys....annual exam.....
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I am going out to try this:
This weed can also be controlled with Borax. Borax contains boron, which is an essential nutrient needed in very tiny amounts for healthy plant growth. Amounts even slightly over what is needed are toxic to plants. (Grass may brown a bit, but it will grow out of it.)
The problem is, boron does not dissipate or break down like standard weed-killers. If it's applied repeatedly or at too strong a rate, you will end up with an area where you can't grow anything until the boron leaches out. That may take years. At most, you should only treat your lawn with borax once each spring for two years. Here's the formula: dissolve eight ounces of a product like Twenty Mule Team Borax into four ounces of warm water, then dilute it in 2 1⁄2 gallons of water. This should be sprayed evenly over 1,000 square feet of lawn, no more, no less.
Because I'm cheap and I already have Borax and a sprayer. Wish me luck. If I kill the lawn, I will be PISSED. I hate the across-the-street neighbors, so I'm not going to spend too much money making a nice view for them. I KNOW, I'm an asshole. But they suck. They really do. Worthless, uneducated people who made another generation of stupid, big-headed, violent, nasty-mouthed kids...
(03-15-2013, 07:12 PM)aussiefriend Wrote: You see Duchess, I have set up a thread to discuss something and this troll is behaving just like Riotgear did.
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What weeds are you trying to take out?...and why are you taking a risk with the Boron?
A standard weed and feed will kill most and green up your grass and will last for awhile if you use a slo release,which would be good as it has less of a "burn" potential also.You have room for error also when using a spreader not exactly specified on the package.Meaning a Scott weed and feed product will say to use a Scott spreader,of course but will list SOME others and the setting to use it at for the proper coverage and rates.If you dont have one of those you can still close to the same application rate.
Learn the weeds in the yard.Most places that sell seed will have charts to take home with you or pull out some of the little basturds and take them to a local nursery for identification.
Also...Wisteria's dont produce flowers until the vine is 10 years old.If you go buy one,look for a upscale nursery who can sell you a plant that is that old already,if you want immediate flowers.In fact,if you go looking and you see them with flowers,you'll know it is mature already.They are just starting to pop open up here now.
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(04-23-2011, 03:24 PM)Misguided Wrote: What weeds are you trying to take out?...and why are you taking a risk with the Boron?
A standard weed and feed will kill most and green up your grass and will last for awhile if you use a slo release,which would be good as it has less of a "burn" potential also.You have room for error also when using a spreader not exactly specified on the package.Meaning a Scott weed and feed product will say to use a Scott spreader,of course but will list SOME others and the setting to use it at for the proper coverage and rates.If you dont have one of those you can still close to the same application rate.
Learn the weeds in the yard.Most places that sell seed will have charts to take home with you or pull out some of the little basturds and take them to a local nursery for identification.
Also...Wisteria's dont produce flowers until the vine is 10 years old.If you go buy one,look for a upscale nursery who can sell you a plant that is that old already,if you want immediate flowers.In fact,if you go looking and you see them with flowers,you'll know it is mature already.They are just starting to pop open up here now.
I'm a piece of crap and didn't feel like going to Walmart. I sprinkled some borax on dandelions for an experiment. It was only on the outer part of the yard close to the street, I didn't sprinkle any on the nicer part of the yard close to the house, didn't want to kill my pear trees. I promise I'll buy weed and feed for that tomorrow.
What do you think about silver lace? I am considering buying a little electric chainsaw (do they have those?) to trim up that tree and planting silver lace to grow on it like a trellis.
(03-15-2013, 07:12 PM)aussiefriend Wrote: You see Duchess, I have set up a thread to discuss something and this troll is behaving just like Riotgear did.
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(04-23-2011, 03:44 PM)Cracker Wrote: What do you think about silver lace? I am considering buying a little electric chainsaw (do they have those?) to trim up that tree and planting silver lace to grow on it like a trellis.
Silver Lace or Star Jasmine. I believe the Silver Lace grows faster than the Star Jasmine.
On the south side of my home in CO, I designed and planted a "perfume" garden. I used Star Jasmine to meld with the gated entrance arbor.
Ixnay on the electric chain saw. Either gas or one of these:
http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Yard-an...uner-12-ft
I have both. For most of the pruning, I use the Fiskar. If you opt for the Fiskar, be sure and get the chain drive. It cuts a damn near two-inch limb, like a hot knife through butter. Use the saw blade for the bigger limbs.
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Cant help with the Silver Lace,dont know about it but I have a very salty lady in Co who did all our landscaping here and moved there and she knows everything about all that stuff.I'll ask her and get back to you.
Tiki seems to be pretty knowledgeable about it.
I agree with her on the chainsaw.Just get a small gas one or look into the Fiskar.Poulan,Huskquavarna(sp?),any major brand makes a pretty trouble free(as far as starting and fuel mixtures)small homeowner brand of saw.Some have a lever/adjustment dial on the side for chain adjustment that also makes it easy to adjust the tension.
Chainsaws can be good therapy too<G>.
I'll check with our local Rep to see what they recommend as I dont know what is currently on the market.I have used the same 2 saws for over 12 years now.
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I am trying to learn not to procrastinate, so I ordered a 14" electric chainsaw yesterday. The good news: It was only $50. I know, it is probably only worth $50.
I'll let you know when I start to hate it and go get the tree trimmer on a stick.
I decided not to cut off my nose to spite my face and make the yard look better. I'll just keep ignoring the neighbors.
(03-15-2013, 07:12 PM)aussiefriend Wrote: You see Duchess, I have set up a thread to discuss something and this troll is behaving just like Riotgear did.
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